When Giles Coren (restaurant reviewer du jour at The Sunday Times) tweets the next big thing, it is a good idea to book a table PDQ or soon you won’t be able to get a seat within a year. So in January, when Mr Coren used his letter limit to herald a new dawn in W10, we did just that.
108 Garage is what it says. It is based at 108 Golborne Road, W10, which without being too rude is the run down end of Portobello Road. The restaurant is housed in a disused garage but beautifully designed with lots of concrete, exposed brickwork layered with eclectic artwork and overblown images.
The set menu for five courses was £45 a head (not including booze) but was worth every single penny. Every course was bold and delicious and incredibly memorable even after the accompanying wine (always delicious). Reviewing restaurants is not normally our day job but as the website currently offers scant explanation of the menu or pricing we thought it would be helpful to give you an idea to what is on offer.
Homemade sourdough served with tiny little bowls of whipped butter, silky chicken liver parfait and a faintly fishy taramasalata were just the start. The second course was slivers of iridescent beetroot glistening with a sharp sheep’s yoghurt and tiny pieces of eel. A small sample of Blood Orange sorbet smacked our palate into shape before the choice of mains; sea bass on a bed of sharp sea vegetables or a musky slab of rare venison. Both were celebrated on our table. The finale saw sharp rhubarb ice cream made with liquid nitrogen or Black Bomber (in our opinion the very best Cheddar in the world) served as mouth-watering, mini, melting cheese on toasts.
This bold ultra-contemporary cooking has to be the new trend – global fusion – taking tastes and seasonal influences from across the world and creating stylishly different, decadent dishes. The chef is Chris Denny, who we assume is soon to be acclaimed.
If you can, Go, Try, Book, Eat, Enjoy. PDQ.
108 Garage, 108 Golborne Road, London, W10 5PS